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Where to Buy Second Hand Rims - Online and Local Guide

Buying second hand rims can save you hundreds while upgrading your ride.

But knowing where to look—and what to avoid—makes all the difference. This guide breaks down the best online and local sources, how to verify fitment, what to inspect, and how to buy safely.

Know Your Fitment Before You Shop

Before browsing, lock down your specs: diameter, width, bolt pattern (PCD), center bore, offset (ET), and load rating. You can look these up by vehicle on Wheel-Size.com or in your owner’s manual. For factory tire sizes and door-jamb labels (helpful for diameter/width guidance), check this tire size explainer.

Not sure what those numbers mean? The bolt pattern must match exactly (e.g., 5x114.3), the center bore should be equal to or larger than your hub (hub-centric rings can adapt if larger), and the offset determines how far the rim sits in or out of the fender. Brush up with Tire Rack’s wheel and fitment guides, and double-check with a calculator like WillTheyFit before you click Buy.

Example: A 2016 Honda Civic commonly runs a 5x114.3 bolt pattern, 64.1 mm center bore, and an offset around +45. A rim that’s 18x8 +35 might fit with the right tire size and clearance, but you should still verify brake caliper clearance and fender room. If your car uses TPMS, factor in sensor compatibility or budget for new sensors—see this quick primer on TPMS basics.

Best Places to Find Second Hand Rims Online

Trusted marketplaces

  • Facebook Marketplace: Huge local selection and easy messaging. Search by diameter (e.g., “18 inch rims 5x114.3”) and set a travel radius you’re comfortable with.
  • eBay Motors (Wheels): National reach, buyer protections, and powerful filters for size and bolt pattern. Always check seller feedback and return terms.
  • Craigslist: Great for local deals; meet in person and test-fit if possible. Use targeted queries like “OEM take-off wheels [your car model].”
  • OfferUp: App-driven local listings with ratings. Ask for close-ups of the bead seat and inner barrel.
  • Gumtree (UK) and Kijiji (Canada): Strong regional options with plenty of OEM take-offs and replica sets.

Enthusiast forums and groups

  • Brand- and model-specific forums (e.g., BMW, Subaru, VW) often host classifieds with well-documented sets. Try a search like “[your car] forum classifieds”.
  • Facebook enthusiast groups: Join local chapters to minimize shipping, arrange in-person inspections, and test-fit before buying.

Where to Look Locally

  • Salvage yards and recyclers: Use Car-Part.com to locate OEM wheels pulled from donor vehicles. Many yards will text photos and ship.
  • Pick-and-pull locations: Browse chains like LKQ Pick Your Part for budget-friendly finds; check for bends and cracks before purchase.
  • Local tire and wheel shops: Ask about trade-ins and take-offs (factory rims removed when customers upgrade). Shops may also help verify runout and balance.
  • Dealerships: Service departments sometimes sell gently used OEM sets from upgrades or lease returns, often with center caps included.

How to Inspect Used Rims Like a Pro

Bring a flashlight, straightedge, and tape measure. If meeting a seller, inspect in a well-lit area and, ideally, test-fit one wheel on your hub before paying.

  • Barrel and lip: Sight down the edge for bends; minor curb rash is cosmetic, but flat spots or wobbles suggest a bend. Run a straightedge along the outer lip.
  • Cracks and repairs: Inspect the inner barrel and spoke junctions. Be wary of welded repairs on cast wheels; ask who did the repair and request a receipt.
  • Bead seat corrosion: Pitting on the bead seat can cause air leaks. Light corrosion may be serviceable; heavy pitting might not seal properly.
  • Lug holes and center bore: Ovaled lug holes indicate over-torquing. Ensure the center bore isn’t damaged. Confirm whether the wheel is hub-centric or will need rings.
  • Backpad and markings: Look for size, offset (ET), load rating, and manufacturer stamps cast into the back. For OEM wheels, verify part numbers with a quick search.
  • Runout and balance: If possible, have a shop check radial/lateral runout on a balancer. Excessive runout causes vibration and uneven tire wear.
  • TPMS and hardware: Ask whether TPMS sensors, center caps, lug nuts/bolts, and hub rings are included. Budget for replacements if needed.

Authenticity: OEM vs Replica

OEM rims typically have consistent quality control and clear part numbers. Reputable replicas can be fine for street use, but avoid unbranded castings of unknown origin. Search the part number plus “specs” or “recall” to uncover known issues. When in doubt, compare weight, finish quality, and markings to verified OEM references or photos from trusted sources.

Smart Pricing and Negotiation

  • Benchmark the market: Compare against new pricing for the same or similar wheels. If a new set is $1,000, a clean used set often lands at 40–70% of that depending on condition and rarity.
  • Factor true costs: Add shipping, mounting/balancing, potential refinishing, TPMS, and new hardware. A “cheap” set can get expensive fast.
  • Use condition to negotiate: Document flaws with photos and estimate repair costs (e.g., $100–$150 per wheel for straightening or refinishing in many markets).
  • Move quickly, but carefully: Desirable OEM sizes sell fast. Ask for a short hold while you confirm fitment using Wheel-Size.com or a forum fitment thread.

Safety, Shipping, and Scam Avoidance

  • Meet smart: For local deals, meet at a busy public location (or police station lobby) during daylight. Bring a friend if possible.
  • Payment protection: Cash in person is fine; for distance purchases, use methods with buyer protection such as PayPal Goods & Services. Avoid wire transfers, Zelle to strangers, or gift payments.
  • Proof and photos: Request timestamped photos of each wheel’s front and back, close-ups of any damage, and part numbers. If weight matters, ask for a photo of the set on a scale.
  • Spot red flags: Extremely low prices, stock photos only, or refusal to provide detailed pics are warning signs. Verify the seller’s phone/email and use reverse image search on photos.
  • Packing for shipping: Each rim should have its face protected with foam/cardboard, be boxed individually in double-wall cartons, and be properly cushioned. Insure the shipment and get tracking.

After You Buy: Prep and Install

  • Clean and inspect again: Degrease thoroughly, then use a clay bar to remove embedded grime. Recheck for hairline cracks once clean.
  • Hardware check: Confirm correct lug type (conical vs. ball seat), thread pitch, and hub-centric rings. Replace damaged center caps and valve stems.
  • Tires and balancing: Mount quality tires sized for your new width/diameter and have the set road-force balanced if possible.
  • Install with proper torque: Use the vehicle’s specified torque and a star pattern. Re-torque after 50–100 miles. See installation tips.
  • Test drive and align: Check for vibration or rubbing at full lock and over bumps. An alignment may be wise if offset/width changed significantly.

Quick Checklist Before You Click “Buy”

  • Exact bolt pattern, center bore, width, diameter, and offset verified for your car
  • No cracks, severe bends, or bead seat damage
  • Load rating meets or exceeds vehicle requirements
  • Includes needed hardware (TPMS, lugs/bolts, rings, caps) or budgeted
  • Shipping cost, insurance, and return policy understood

With the right homework and a careful inspection, second hand rims can deliver OEM quality or stylish upgrades at a fraction of the price—without the headaches.